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Thursday, December 3, 2009
Thanks for the 'atta boy'
Raider,
The products you guys have put together are the finest in the
detailing industry. Specifically, your metal polish G6 and Type S formula. There is without a doubt in my mind that
your metal polish is the best. We professionally clean and detail Gulfstreams, Falcons, Hawkers and every other
private jet you can imagine. One of our biggest strengths is Brightwork and the main reason companies choose us. I have personally
tried every other product out there and none of them can create luster like Nu-vite chemicals.
In addition, your paint products are just as amazing. Every time I use the Nu Power II i'm impressed. No matter
how many times we use it, and lately that is a lot. I'm proud to say that today, I used your Nu Pol formula on a Ford
F350's hood that had bad oxidation. I used that to prep the paint and followed up with the Nu Power II. I
have tried your competition in the Dry wash category as well. No one can create the high gloss appearance and slick feel that
Nu Power II leaves.
I have been preserving automobiles, boats, aircraft, and Rv's for almost
10 years now. As long as I'm in business I will continue to utilize Nu-vite Chemicals. Please send me any information
on new products or news. Thank you for the nice e-mail and your contiued support.
Benjamin Coen
Obsessive
Cleaning Tactics, Inc.
813-956-0004
From: raidermchugh@nuvitechemical.com
To: oct_coen@hotmail.com
Subject: Nuvite Assistance
Mr. Coen
This is Raider McHugh with Nuvite Chemicals. Online you purchased a variety
of our products. I was wondering how they are working out for you, what you are using it on, and if there is anything
that I can do to help you?
Being the Training/Sales Manager for Nuvite, I have been
around planes most of my life and thoroughly enjoy making planes beautiful. It is my job to give assistance and potentially
introduce you to some additional products that would make your planes even more attractive.
If there is anything that I can do for you, or any information
you might need, please let me know.
Raider McHugh
Nuvite Chemicals Training/Sales
Manager
C 918-510-2678
T 866-NuviteUSA(688.4838)
3 dec 09 @ 1:21 pm
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Removing scratches/scrapes from Stainless Steel
I guess I can say I've put my own share of road rash on a
bike - and my body, too, at times!
Sorry to say that the only method to remove the scrapes in Stainless Steel is
sanding, then polishing, unless the scrape cannot be felt when you drag your fingernails across the area. My gut feel
is that if the weight of the bike was on the pipe and it was moving at all, you've got what we term as "gouges"
on the polished surfaces. "Gouges" are removed by progressive sanding with Micro-Mesh (Debbie can help
you with that) start with 600 grade then 1000, 1200, 1500,1800,2000 and 2400 grades- I think Micro-Surface makes a sample
pack with those grades as part of it - use fluid so that you are wet sanding. After the 2400 grit, start polishing
with our NuShine II Grade F9 metal polish, using a wool compounding pad (be sure it is a compounding pad
- not a loose wool pad - which is used on paint). Compounding pads have the wool fibers twisted up into a tuft, like
cut pile carpet. Use about 2000 rpm & keep the pad moving so as not to overheat one spot. After the surface
has a good reflecting image, -usually there are buffing swirls, but they come out later -then change to a new wool compounding
pad, and go over it with NuShine II Grade G6. Finally, cosmetic polishing can either
be performed by hand or with a random orbital buffer with cotton flannel over the face of the buffer. To
get that clear mirror image and depth of shine always finish with NuShine II Grade S.
If you are so lucky that
the scratches are so minor that your fingernail can't catch on the scratch, then just start with the NuShine II
Grade F9, then G6 and final finish with Grade S. This is the procedure
when polishing stainless steel sheet metal, and will give you a mirror surface.
What Grade of Nuvite polish (NuShine II) should I use?
The real question is, what is the current condition
of the aluminum skin on the plane/Airstream/boat or whatever?
So here's
the start point options:
1. Normal, dull, but non-corroded skin = NuShine II, Grade G6, followed by a final finish
with NuShine II grade S.
2. Already polished skin, but cloudy, otherwise slick = NuShine II Grade C if it has been polished
regularly, NuShine II grade G6 if it has been cloudy a long time, followed by final finish with Grade S.
3. Corroded, rough skin - first pass NuShine II grade
F9, followed by Grade G6, then a final finish with grade S. If the first pass with F9 does not clean up
the corrosion pitting, more passes will be necessary.
As
you can see, there are options. Also, all polishing except the final finish should be done with a circular
("car buffer") buffer with a wool COMPOUNDING pad, running no more than 1500 to 2500 rpm. Standard
wool polishing pads don't work for metal. Clean residue around panel lines, rivets, etc. with long
nap microfiber (i.e.: not the glass cleaning type) or polishing cloth. Use mineral
spirits if the residue has had time to dry.
Final
finish with cotton flannel sheet material wrapped over the head of a random orbital buffer.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Polishing 6061
From:
"Dan Schmiedt" To: "ronblackink"
Subject: polishing a sonex Hey Ron,
I spoke with you some time back via the Luscombe list about polishing a (new but never polished)
Sonex... You suggested F9 for the 6061 ... it does do quite well. However, we're having a hard time getting
a good shine on some areas between the formers where you can't bear down very hard on the surface without much
flexing. You can see one such area in the attached photo.
Our buffing pads have seen
better days, so we're ordering new ones ... that may help, but wanted to check with you to see if you had any other
options. Obviously, it would have been best for everything to be polished before assembly ... but that's not
how it worked out. ;)
Would any sanding be appropriate, or should we just keep up with the F9
and the compounding?
Thanks for your help!!
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ronblack@nuvitechemical.com
Subj: Entry for procedures
Dan - What you are seeing in the photo is the surface left by the rolling mill rollers.
This is the greatest problem with non-clad aluminum, other than the fact that the alloy is harder than the clad overlay of
pure aluminum on alclad material. Try not to bear down so much - only firm contact with the surface is necessary - shouldn't
be hard work....
Just be sure that the pads you are using are COMPOUNDING
pads, and not just normal wool pads. The ones we sell (EQ-140) are compounding pads, but if you go to the auto supply
and just order wool pads you'll get pads meant for polishing paint. If you want to buy locally, the 3M #05711 or
#05719 are compounding pads. Look for the wool hairs to be twisted up into tufts on a compounding pad. The REGULAR,
non-tufted wool, pad will probably never be able to clear the mill marks out of aluminum. It is very important
that you use a real wool compounding pad - and it is the number one problem I run into when people call our Tech Support
line with a problem. If you
are using a compounding wool pad, then be sure that you don't use too much polish. The black "slurry"
should stay on the surface for no more than 60 seconds and then clear up by itself as you continue buffing. If you use
too much polish, it will stay on the surface as you buff beyond the sixty second timeframe, and there is so much polish on
the surface that it is just sliding around in the stuff, and not blending the metal surface. When the "slurry" does finally disappear, you can continue to
buff for a bit - 30 seconds or so - which just uses the accumulated polish on the pad, and can work well - just don't
get the metal too hot by working the same area over and over and over... Hit one spot by passing the spinning pad over
the same track 6 or 8 times then move over to the spot next to it, then move to a third spot, then back to the first
(it has cooled some by then) and so on. Let that whole 2' X 1.5' area cool down while you work another area,
maybe two, then back to the first, and so on.
Another thing that might help is the use of the spur... any time you start to get a shiny look on the wool pad,-usually
after about 5 minutes of buffing - use the spur (looks just like a cowboy spur with a handle on it). Turn
the buffer over so the pad is up, lean it against your leg, turn it on and run the spur thru the wool. It should fluff
up and work better again. If you don't spur the wool, it quits working and you have to! When the spur raises
matted layers, you need to change pads.
The 6061 as used on the Sonex, Zenith and Murphy aircraft all have the mill finish problem you are seeing. It takes
many passes to smooth it out (I've done 8-10 NuShine II F9 passes - but of course we are only talking about a 60-90 second
timeframe for each pass.) Luckily, the polish job is much tougher and takes may times longer to cloud up than the clad
metal polished airplanes. So you are doing some of the ongoing work up front instead of during the flying time! Don't sand it unless you find gouges in the metal.
Sanding will deteriorate the thickness of the sheet in an uncontrolled manner, and the material strength specifications will
no longer hold for the monocoque structure.
-Ron
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