| Metal Polishing Clad Sheet Metal Procedures
Click here for downloadable PDF
Nuvite Recommended Polishing Procedures
for NuShine II Metal Polish
The following polishing procedures are a compilation of many
methods developed through our own use of our products in field
and lab testing, and from the many customers who have offered
their own findings through their experiences in the field.
Although the following is a recommended procedure, it may not
be the only procedure to provide good results. Metal polishing
is at least as much an art as a procedure, but we have found
that the following method will usually give you outstanding
results in the shortest amount of time –and with the least amount
of hard work. Join in the fun, and give your aircraft, boat,
bike, car or RV the personalized touch of a truly "knock your
socks off", outstanding polish finish – with the absolute best
depth, clarity and image obtainable, anywhere, any way – period!
Believe it or not… users of Nuvite NuShine II have coined the
phrase “The Nuvite Look” to describe the excellence of polish
jobs on aircraft. …Well, we couldn’t say it better ourselves!
“The Better the Polish Job, The Longer It Lasts!”
It’s true! -once the surface is polished to that clear, deep
image Nuvite NuShine II offers, (aka. “That Nuvite Look”) and
the more times it gets that Nuvite polish job, the longer it
will last. This is because the metal surface becomes better
and better. The surface is more “healed”. The Nuvite system
of Graded polishes allows you to truly remove embedded oxidation.
Oxidation left in the polished surface rapidly increases the
breeding of more oxidation, causing the polish job to dull quicker.
The cleaner the surface of oxidation, the longer the polish
job lasts.
“One Grade of Polish Can’t Do It All”
Nuvite’s NuShine II polishes are designed, specifically, to
be a "System" of differing polishes – with characteristics that
do specific tasks that will save you time and a great deal of
effort to accomplish the particular phase of the process leading
to the outstanding results you, and we, desire.
The Nuvite NuShine II Metal Polish System
Finishing Grades:
For use after surface of the metal has been “healed” or prepared
with the compounding Grades listed below.
NuShine II Grade S – the finishing grade that gives the really
deep, clear image when used as a final finish over a properly
prepared, oxidation-free surface. (Here’s “The Nuvite Look”)
NuShine II Grade A – a medium-finish grade that gives a clear,
clean shine and can be used as a light compounding grade to
remove very slight oxidation, such as when a good polish job
starts to slightly degrade. Also useful for hand polishing in
tight spots where buffers cannot reach. Will give good finishes
good, bright look that is similar to usual commercial grade
polishes, but does not offer the “spectacular look” of NuShine
II Grade S.
Compounding Grades:
Before a polished metal surface can present a really clear deep
image, it needs to be prepared for the final finish to “heal
the surface”. One or more of the NuShine II Compounding Grades
may need to be used before the final “Nuvite Look” can be achieved.
NuShine II Grade C – C is a light compounding grade polish that
we recommend to use for prep of already polished surfaces prior
to using Grade S. Grade C will remove the cloudy/hazy white
background (called “undercast”) and other surface dullness found
in many otherwise good polish finishes. (See Specific Procedures)
NuShine
Grade G6 – When the surface
has not been polished, or has been allowed to deteriorate, G6
may be a good answer as it will quickly but gently get to a
“healed” surface finish. G6 has a high-tech abrasive system
that is designed to do a quick, aggressive oxidation cut, and
immediately break down to a finer cut, similar to Grade C. Use
when there is normal to serious oxidation on the surface of
the aluminum, or even when very light surface marks are evident.
Can also be used to blend light surface scratches in aluminum
and will polish stainless steel.
NuShine
II Grade F7 – F7 has
a very hard and sharp, but very fine abrasive that continues
its compounding action throughout the buffing process. It is
best used for blending very light pitting or scratches from
aluminum surfaces, polishing new, non-clad, cast, or forged,
smooth surface aluminum, or for polishing smooth stainless steel
or titanium. You can follow F7 with Grade S for final
finish without intermediate steps.
NuShine
II Grade F9 –F9 is used where
the surface has been damaged by corrosion, has severe pitting,
or has had severe stripping processes, including being sanded
or scratched by abrasive cloth. Ask your Nuvite representative
for specific recommendations, but never use standard commercial
grade sanding papers –even wet, on aluminum to be polished.
Alternatively, there are specialty micro fine surface sanding
materials (specialty grade abrasives –not commercial grade sandpapers)
that may be helpful in really severe situations prior to using
F9. But F9 is a good surface blender and is useful even for
non-clad aluminum, forged and cast aluminum, stainless steel
and titanium and anodized surfaces needing special procedures
because of the surface hardness. Usually it is necessary to
follow Grade F9 on aluminum with Grade G6 or C for further surface
preparation prior to final finishing with Grade S.
Recommended Equipment
for Polishing:
For compounding the surface:
-- An inexpensive electric
variable speed circular buffer/polisher (normally called a “car"
buffer and can be purchased from Nuvite
- #EQ-136or at most discount department stores) NOTE:
no more than 1500 - 2000 rpm should be used
--
Purchase a “Velcro” mount buffing head (from Nuvite #EQ-143
or use the 3M “Hookit” System) for the above buffer/polisher
if it does not come with Velcro-type backing pad.
--
Nuvite #EQ-140 or
3M #05711, 05719 (or equivalent) TUFTED wool (looks like carpet
- look for “twilled up” tufts of wool hair –not loose wool hairs)
may say: "Compounding Pad" - for the buffing head and a buffing
"spur" (pad conditioner to prevent matting -Nuvite #EQ-144).Pads
can be cleaned, washed and reused.
For Finishing the Surface:
-- For finishing, one of the best machines we have seen is the
Cyclo Model 5 dual head orbital buffer - Nuvite #EQ-136. The
Cyclo will do a better job, faster and will be easier to use
than almost any other buffer we’ve found –an important consideration
for the future upkeep of your polish job. It is used in combination
with the cotton flannel sheeting below to get the swirl-free,
absolute mirror finish. Foam pads are used only as a drive surface
for the cotton flannel, which is wrapped across the face of
the pads. (See Specific Procedures)
--
Cotton flannel - Nuvite
#EQ-145 to wrap around orbital buffing head for finishing.
Another, somewhat less effective option for final fish polishing
is an electric orbital (non-spinning pad) auto polisher, that
can be found at any large retail auto supply store. It is less
expensive, and will take more time and work, but it will do
the job.
Specific Procedures:
Normal Procedures for Polishing Clad Aluminum
For repair of badly scratched or severely corroded metal, or
special needs, contact Nuvite Technical Support for specific
procedure suggestions at (888)
326-6489.
Wear
old clothes or a throwaway-type smock to save your clothes from
black staining.
For lightly pitted, very dull metal, with small surface scratches:
-remove any oils, paraffins (from smoke oils) and dirt from
the surface before polishing. Surface should be dry with normal
humidity conditions for best results.
-
Use Nuvite NuShine II – Grade F9 or G6 polish (depending
on surface condition) starting with new or clean wool compounding
pad on circular type buffer
-
Place one finger across
the top surface of the polish, just wet your finger with
polish (do NOT dip out a quantity of polish –only wet your
finger with polish) and put a big, wet "fingerprint" of
about half a finger length every 3" or so over an area of
18" – 2’ square to be polished. Work quickly – do not allow
the polish to dry.
-
Pat the pad, or place the pad onto the "fingerprinted" area,
and smear the polish around a little before turning on the
polisher so wet polish does not throw. The polisher should
not run more than about 1500—1800 rpm. We do not recommend
that higher than 2000 rpm be used due to the increased possibility
of excess surface heating.
-
Tilt the pad up very slightly (10-15 degrees or so) so that
one side of the pad touches the surface as it spins (do
not lay flat). Sweep the polisher back and forth over the
surface at a speed of about one to two seconds per foot
of travel as it spins. It is not necessary to press hard
against the surface. Light, but firm pressure is all that
is needed. (If it were a horizontal surface, about the weight
of the buffer or very slightly more.) Scratched area may
require working back and forth, then up and down, then trace
an “X” pattern over the scratched area several times to
blend the scratches. Do not stop the pad movement back and
forth and “bear down” on one area to blend the scratch.
It can cause too much surface heating.
-
Black residue will form over the buffing area. Continue
moving the buffer back and forth/up and down across the
surface. After about 30 – 45 seconds, the black residue
will begin to lighten and then disappear if you have the
correct amount of polish. Continue moving over the area
until the black residue is gone and the clean aluminum surface
shows. Black residue may remain around the edges of your
buffed area, but that will be cleared as we move to the
next adjoining area to be buffed. If further work is needed
to clear the cloudiness or scratches remain prominent, repeat
the above process.
-
Repeat the above steps on the next adjoining area, and so
on until the panel, or whole vehicle is complete. When the
wool compounding pad "cakes up" (looks shiny) with polish,
fluff the nap of the pad by "spurring" with a buffing spur
or a screwdriver blade held vertical against the face of
the spinning pad.
-
When through with buffing for the day, hand wipe around
the areas where residue has built up –rivets, panel lines,
etc. to remove any surface polish accumulations of residue
from the compounding process before starting with finishing
Grade S. Long nap microfiber
cloth is very effective when polish is still fresh, and
seems to have an affinity for the accumulated polish. Leaving
the polish to dry makes the residue harder to remove, and
may require mineral spirits
New, clad aluminum or already polished metal with moderate to
severe cloudiness in the reflecting image:
–remove any oils, paraffins (from smoke oils) and dirt from
the surface before polishing. Surface should be dry with normal
humidity conditions for best results.
-
Use
Nuvite NuShine II – Grade
G6 or C polish (C if surface has been recently polished,
G6 if it has been a while, or is acid rain damaged) with
new or clean wool compounding pad on circular type buffer:
Place one finger across the top surface of the polish, just
wet your finger with polish (do NOT dip out a quantity of
polish –only wet your finger with polish) and put a big,
wet "fingerprint" of about half a finger length every 3"
or so over an area of 18" – 2’ square to be polished. Work
quickly – do not allow the polish to dry.
Pat the pad, or place the pad onto the "fingerprinted" area,
and smear the polish around a little before turning on the
polisher so wet polish does not throw. The polisher should
not run more than about 1500-1800 rpm. We do not recommend that higher than 2000 rpm be used.
Tilt the pad up very slightly (10-15 degrees or so) so that
one side of the pad touches the surface as it spins (do
not lay flat). Move the polisher over the surface at a speed of about one
to two seconds per foot of travel as it spins. It is not
necessary to press hard against the surface. Light, but
firm pressure is all that is needed. (If it were a horizontal
surface, about the weight of the buffer or very slightly
more.) Do not stop the pad movement back and forth and “bear
down” on one area. It can cause too much surface heating.
Black residue will form over
the buffing area. Continue moving the buffer back and forth/up
and down across the surface. After about 30 – 45 seconds,
the black residue will begin to lighten and disappear if
you have the correct amount of polish. Continue moving over
the area until the black residue is gone and the clean aluminum
surface shows. Black residue may remain around the edges
of your buffed area, but that will be cleared as we move
to the next adjoining area to be buffed. If further work
is needed to clear the cloudiness, repeat the above process,
or if using C, try a pass with G6.
Repeat the above steps on the
next adjoining area, and so on until the panel, or whole
vehicle is complete. When the wool compounding pad "cakes
up" (looks shiny) with polish, fluff the nap of the pad
by "spurring" with a buffing spur or a screwdriver blade
held vertical against the face of the spinning pad.
When through with buffing for
the day, hand wipe around the areas where residue has built
up –rivets, panel lines, etc. to remove any surface polish
accumulations of residue from the compounding process before
starting with finishing Grade S. Long nap microfiber cloth
is very effective when polish is still fresh, and seems
to have an affinity for the accumulated polish. Leaving
the polish to dry makes the residue harder to remove, and
may require mineral spirits.
Finishing:
Use Nuvite NuShine II - Grade S polish and cotton flannel material
(do not use flannel with any synthetic materials in the nap
area – acrylic or polyester, etc.) on orbital (non-spinning
pad) polisher. Final finish may be done by hand
as well, but machine polishing is generally superior in result.
-
Place one finger across the top surface of the jar of polish,
and put a big wet "fingerprint" of about half a finger length
every 6" or so over an area of 18" – 2’ square to be polished.
(Note that this is half the amount of polish used in the
compounding grades.)
-
Place sheet of flannel, nap down, on a CLEAN surface and
place buffer on it to wrap. Wrap flannel material so that
flannel is smooth across the face of the polisher drive
pad(s), holding the sheet of flannel with your hand on the
grip, being sure to leave any motor air vent opening unobstructed.
Pull the cotton flannel tight over the face of the polisher
and hold with your hand as you grip the polisher handholds.
NOTE: Avoid micro scratching the surface as you buff. Micro
scratching appears after viewing polished surface in daylight,
and a “hologram” effect is seen on the surface. It is caused
by dust, residue or other
contaminate in the nap of the flannel. Be very cautious
to keep the surface of the flannel clean before using.
-
Smear the face of the polisher around the area to be polished
before turning on the polisher, then turn it on and again
move the polisher over the area at about three seconds per
foot of travel. Use only light pressure.
-
Move the polisher back and forth/up and down. Keep the polisher
moving as before – work the areas around raised rivets and
panel lines some extra, maybe even tipping the pad a small
amount on these areas. Black residue will appear as before.
-
After 30 – 45 seconds, the black residue will begin to disappear
as you continue buffing over the area, and the bright, clear
shine will begin to appear. If residue stays on surface
more than 60 seconds, for best results, wipe off and repolish
area using proper amount of polish.
-
Work back over rivets and panel lines to clean the residue
from these areas as well as possible.
-
When the area is clean of surface polish, stop the polisher,
move the flannel material to a new, clean spot of the material,
and final buff over the area, continuing the cleaning and
brightening of the finish and picking up any light residue
caught around rivets and panel lines. Continue with the
same process over the next area, and so on.
-
Using clean “microfiber” polishing cloth, work the areas
close in around rivet heads and panel lines to clean the
small amount of residue after final fishing. Continually
move your fingers on the cloth slightly so that a clean
spot is used to clean residue at all times. Removed residue
can leave marks if rubbed into next area to be cleaned.
Be careful not to drag any polish out onto the clean, clear,
open panel polish image.
-
If needed, a final pass may be made after final cleaning
of residue. Use a brand new flannel cloth, and use long
sweeping passes to final “fluff buff” the surface. If the
flannel picks up residue, be sure to move to new, ”virgin”
area of the flannel so that micro scratching does not occur.
-
Step back and enjoy your handiwork!
You’ve now got “The Nuvite Look!”
Click here for downloadable PDF
|
|
